I'll have to dig through all the papers, wherever they are, but to my knowledge, the critical timing components and belt were replaced about 6-8months prior to me owning it. Which means a lot less than 10k miles ago.
sounds like this is going to be a less than pleasant job on it's way.
hey ho
thermostat
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Hi,
you can remove the radiator, as far as I know, also without removing the whole front! Wait some hours until you get a second meaning from somebody else here
Good to know that the timing belt has been replaced, one problem less
Regards
Bastian
you can remove the radiator, as far as I know, also without removing the whole front! Wait some hours until you get a second meaning from somebody else here
Good to know that the timing belt has been replaced, one problem less
Regards
Bastian
Yes you can remove the radiator without dismantling the whole front.
May be it's sufficient to remove the aux electrical fan only, so that there is space enough to thump the thermostat cover bolts.
Before you can dismantle the radiator, you have to remove the auxiliary and the viscous fan (mind left-hand thread of the central nut).
As I have renewed my whole timing stuff, I've even removed the radiator only .
remove the radiator without dismantling the whole front.May be it's sufficient to remove the aux electrical fan only, so that there is space enough to thump the thermostat cover bolts.
Before you can dismantle the radiator, you have to remove the auxiliary and the viscous fan (mind left-hand thread of the central nut).
As I have renewed my whole timing stuff, I've even removed the radiator only .
So, some progress, of sorts
I couldn't get the radiator out, but did release it sufficiently to get access to everything.
The thermostat housing screws came out, fortunately.
The thermostat was quite badly covered in crud. And very tight in the housing. I'm fairly sure it was also in upside down (bleed/vent at the bottom). I've tested it by cooking it in a pan of water heated on the stove, and it opens and closes ok.
I've flushed through the block in both directions, and while there is very little debris in the water coming through.
I've also flushed through the rad while it's on the car, and there is no obvious debris coming through. But I'd like to take it out for a better look.
The oil cooler under the rad is free and out of the way.
The rad has 3 rubber hoses on the right (viewed from driving position) which are off.
The aircon rad is loose, but still connected.
Presumably, I need to remove the whole cast(?) bracketry radiator mounting to get the rad out?
I couldn't get the radiator out, but did release it sufficiently to get access to everything.
The thermostat housing screws came out, fortunately.
The thermostat was quite badly covered in crud. And very tight in the housing. I'm fairly sure it was also in upside down (bleed/vent at the bottom). I've tested it by cooking it in a pan of water heated on the stove, and it opens and closes ok.
I've flushed through the block in both directions, and while there is very little debris in the water coming through.
I've also flushed through the rad while it's on the car, and there is no obvious debris coming through. But I'd like to take it out for a better look.
The oil cooler under the rad is free and out of the way.
The rad has 3 rubber hoses on the right (viewed from driving position) which are off.
The aircon rad is loose, but still connected.
Presumably, I need to remove the whole cast(?) bracketry radiator mounting to get the rad out?
Hi,
to dismantle the rad completely you have to remove the bumper.
As I remember now, I didn't remove the rad when I was renewing the tooth belt.
At the bottom of the rad you find to further rubber bearings, fixing the rad.
Be prepared, that these bearings will be cracked.
You should also prepare new seals for the gearbox-oil-rad.
The thermostat was not seriously fitted, when the valve was bound downwards.
But the question is: Is there any need, to dismantle the coolant radiator? You can flush the system with special fluids as long as there is no thermostat fitted.
By the way: Tap the threads of the cover cap and insert new bolts with a smooth coat of ceramic or copper grease.
to dismantle the rad completely you have to remove the bumper.
As I remember now, I didn't remove the rad when I was renewing the tooth belt.
At the bottom of the rad you find to further rubber bearings, fixing the rad.
Be prepared, that these bearings will be cracked.
You should also prepare new seals for the gearbox-oil-rad.
The thermostat was not seriously fitted, when the valve was bound downwards.
But the question is: Is there any need, to dismantle the coolant radiator? You can flush the system with special fluids as long as there is no thermostat fitted.
By the way: Tap the threads of the cover cap and insert new bolts with a smooth coat of ceramic or copper grease.
After an interesting day of ups and downs, i have the following situation.
1. I ran the engine without the thermostat. Got it warmed up. But no temperature indication at all- maybe anomalous readings previously? Where are the temp sensors?
2. While running, expansion tank cap off, there is a regular stream of bubbles into the expansion tank. Cap on, the system becomes pressurised very quickly, and the hoses become hard and noticeably balooned. Even though I've made big efforts to ensure no air is trapped in the system.
Head gasket failure?
3. Very moist exhaust- but this may be due to 2 months of sitting unused.
4. Whoever did the timing belt needs shooting. Three of the cover bolts on the right hand belt cover have no hexagon left. So the front of the car has to come apart to get a drill in there to drill the remains out.
5. both fans are running- the viscous fan seems to work ok. Should the electric fan be running constantly?
So, not really a success. And a small pain in the derriere if one or other head gaskets have gone.
1. I ran the engine without the thermostat. Got it warmed up. But no temperature indication at all- maybe anomalous readings previously? Where are the temp sensors?
2. While running, expansion tank cap off, there is a regular stream of bubbles into the expansion tank. Cap on, the system becomes pressurised very quickly, and the hoses become hard and noticeably balooned. Even though I've made big efforts to ensure no air is trapped in the system.
Head gasket failure?
3. Very moist exhaust- but this may be due to 2 months of sitting unused.
4. Whoever did the timing belt needs shooting. Three of the cover bolts on the right hand belt cover have no hexagon left. So the front of the car has to come apart to get a drill in there to drill the remains out.
5. both fans are running- the viscous fan seems to work ok. Should the electric fan be running constantly?
So, not really a success. And a small pain in the derriere if one or other head gaskets have gone.
Hi,
the symptoms sound a bit like a head gasket problem, but I wonder that you've noticed nothing strange on the comression test. Also, the head gaskets on the PT are usually very reliable.
Regarding the sensors. One is located in front of left head, directly where the cooling fluid hose is connected to the head. This is the "primary" sensor. Only if this sensor fails (shortened or open), the sensor at the radiator (bottom) is considered. This are at least the observations I've made, on both the pre- and post-face-lift instrument cluster. Both sensors are subject to malfunctions over the years, an exchange would make sense (shouldn't be too expensive).
The electric fan is running whenever the A/C is enabled, otherwise only if the temperature exceeds specific limits (I have 98, 103, 108 degrees centigrade in my mind for the respective fan speeds). You can test if the fan speeds work properly (requires an intact fuse and intact relais) by plugging out both coolant sensors. The system will then assume a temperatur of, I think, 110°C and goes to maximum fan speed. The engine must be running for that test. You'll be surprised how loud this can be!
Important about the viscois fan is that it becomes "strong" when the engine warms up. You should not be able to stop it literally by hand (I don't have to tell you that you shouldn't really use your hand to try that when the engine is running...). If the coupling appears to not work properly, it may still be the radiator who remains too cold. Did you try if the radiator becomes hot on top and at the bottom when the thermostat isn't built in? If the radiator is clogged, heat distribution is usually unequal.
Regards
Bastian
the symptoms sound a bit like a head gasket problem, but I wonder that you've noticed nothing strange on the comression test. Also, the head gaskets on the PT are usually very reliable.
Regarding the sensors. One is located in front of left head, directly where the cooling fluid hose is connected to the head. This is the "primary" sensor. Only if this sensor fails (shortened or open), the sensor at the radiator (bottom) is considered. This are at least the observations I've made, on both the pre- and post-face-lift instrument cluster. Both sensors are subject to malfunctions over the years, an exchange would make sense (shouldn't be too expensive).
The electric fan is running whenever the A/C is enabled, otherwise only if the temperature exceeds specific limits (I have 98, 103, 108 degrees centigrade in my mind for the respective fan speeds). You can test if the fan speeds work properly (requires an intact fuse and intact relais) by plugging out both coolant sensors. The system will then assume a temperatur of, I think, 110°C and goes to maximum fan speed. The engine must be running for that test. You'll be surprised how loud this can be!
Important about the viscois fan is that it becomes "strong" when the engine warms up. You should not be able to stop it literally by hand (I don't have to tell you that you shouldn't really use your hand to try that when the engine is running...). If the coupling appears to not work properly, it may still be the radiator who remains too cold. Did you try if the radiator becomes hot on top and at the bottom when the thermostat isn't built in? If the radiator is clogged, heat distribution is usually unequal.
Regards
Bastian
Well, another day ticks by, and pretty much certain there is a head gasket failure. The symptoms now are very marked, both in exhaust moisture, and pressure increase in the cooling system. You can actually watch the hoses balooning, and the fluid level being pushed down. I'm surprised the pressure relief in the cap doesn't kick in. It's probably kaput, too.
I did the compression check about 3 months ago, and I guess at the time, the problem hadn't become so great. I think a recheck of the compression is in order, to confirm. What values would you normally get on the PT engine?
I spend a lot of time out of the country, so getting on top of these things can be a bit of a challenge.
I am subscribed to 'the list' at audiworld (just under a different name). I've been watching the discussion, but will chip in shortly.
Time to get it all to pieces for the future head work!
I did the compression check about 3 months ago, and I guess at the time, the problem hadn't become so great. I think a recheck of the compression is in order, to confirm. What values would you normally get on the PT engine?
I spend a lot of time out of the country, so getting on top of these things can be a bit of a challenge.
I am subscribed to 'the list' at audiworld (just under a different name). I've been watching the discussion, but will chip in shortly.
Time to get it all to pieces for the future head work!
Hi,
sorry to hear that the gasket seems to be broken. The good thing is that it's not voodoo to exchange both of the gaskets and you could use the chance to also exchange the valve stem seals and all the oil seals in the heads and the timing belt as well - then you are happy for the next 60k miles!
But more interesting should be WHY a gasket failed, as this is really unusual on the V8 3,6 engines. It would be really bad luck if you repair everything and some weeks later you've the same problem again.
If you need anything, like part lists, please let us know - we'll support you wherever possible!
Best regards
Bastian
sorry to hear that the gasket seems to be broken. The good thing is that it's not voodoo to exchange both of the gaskets and you could use the chance to also exchange the valve stem seals and all the oil seals in the heads and the timing belt as well - then you are happy for the next 60k miles!
But more interesting should be WHY a gasket failed, as this is really unusual on the V8 3,6 engines. It would be really bad luck if you repair everything and some weeks later you've the same problem again.
If you need anything, like part lists, please let us know - we'll support you wherever possible!
Best regards
Bastian
Wich colour has the cap? Black or blue?
Some partdealers have carbondoixide detecting stipes,
with these you can make almost 100% sure that the headgasked is failed.
Hold the stripes in the coolantreservoir while the engine is running and wait for colourchange.
Some partdealers have carbondoixide detecting stipes,
with these you can make almost 100% sure that the headgasked is failed.
Hold the stripes in the coolantreservoir while the engine is running and wait for colourchange.
one of fellow here on forum helped me beyond my expectations.he guided me step by step to find out the problem and when i got the problem which was a worn viscous couple of radiator fan, he even sent me a new one from his country.additionally i found a gr8 friend. coz "a friend in need is a friend indeed". this was first time that someone helped me through a forum....physically.Long live Audi and this forum.
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