3.6 Bj 90 fan engine:priced repair!

Moin Leude,
I just brought my heater back to life. The review by Dirk D. from this forum was a great help to me (search term: fan motor)! Thanks to Dirk D.! Here again the process in line with Dirk's posting with small additions:

With my fan, the coals were worn out, which is why it only ran sporadically, for example, when you ran through potholes or in sharp left curves. By the way, you can still see the condition of a carbon brush in the built-in state. One has to remove cover over the windscreen wiper motor and then one sees on the driver side such a small rubber hose that goes in 90° arc from the fan housing to the air box. If you remove this hose, you can see the top carbon brush and mine was clearly visible at the end. A call to the Bosch service was not very pleasant ("is not possible; you can't do it, you can't do it, all fan engine has to be new" etc.). I didn't go any further. I am then with the developed motor to another autoelectrician, who has looked at this briefly and gave me two coals, which I only had to adapt something. Cost point:
4,19 euros! They are standard coals in the dimension 8X8mm.

I recommend that you remove the hood completely during the repair. These are a few minutes of work, but they make it much easier because you have to tear the fan box with force to get it out. To remove the hood you need a second man/wife.

I've been like this:
1. Remove hood (I cut off the cables that lead in the hood and immediately crimped (reversible) plugs.
2. Decompose wiper arms.
3.Protection removed via wiper motor and fan box.
4.Completely extend wipe motor with axles.
5. Mounting tape of the fan box degraded.
6. Water hoses degraded on the fan box and placed side by side; remove plug from the fan motor.
7. Remove the vacuum lines on the fan box (red, black, white) on the right side / open the cable tie of the air-conditioning hose to be able to push the hose out of the way in due time.
8. The round, black, sliding air channel between the fan housing and the climate heat exchanger greenhouses as far as it goes in the fan box slides.

Now we go into the footrooms of the car:

9. Screw off steering wheel lining on the driver's side (directly behind the steering wheel). The lower part has to be pushed up a bit but not removed, as behind it a screw of the foot space cover hides.
10. Now remove the foot space cover.
11. Destroy the cladding at the Kardan Tunnel.
12.Decompose panelling in the barrel room on the left (screw off the hood pull handle).
13. Pull off and remove the thick ventilation duct 90°
14. Decompose horizontal ventilation duct in the footroom, pulling off plugs for footroom light (the ventilation ducts that can lead down to the rear of the Kardan tunnel).

15. Remove safety box cover in passenger footroom.
16. Remove cladding at Kardantunnel
17.Remove the holder for footroom lamp (cable off!)
18. Degrade 90° ventilation arc (analog to other side).
19. Degrading horizontal ventilation duct.
20. Separating pneumatic pick-up plugs (I don't know if that really has to be. So it was in Dirk's guide).

Now you should have a helper again. A person now has to drag and ggbf with force on the fan box (from outside engine compartment side). I'm just kind of inciting until this thing gets loose. The helper looks from the driver's footroom at whether nothing is tucked under the dashboard or jammed. There is an elongated rubber bellow at the bottom of the fan box that needs to flood. This is best done when one pulls outside and the other pulls the rubber back in the car. Then pull out the whole fan box as far as possible (he likes to clamp himself to the water hoses and to the climate hose!) until you can unscrew the white guide for the sliding air duct on the right side of the box.
On the left side the fuse ring (incl. Remove the engine and gently push the fan motor out to the right. Be careful not to damage the fan wheel.
If you know what you're doing, the whole thing will take about a year. One hour. It took me longer because I had beef with the claddings (so I took some time to find the screw behind the steering wheel cladding. I also wanted to unnecessarily remove the glove compartment).

First blow out the fan properly with compressed air (this is also possible with the tyre filling unit at the next tank). Now bend the fan into the vice and the holders for the carbon brush, while paying attention to the flight path of the spring;-) Cut the cable directly on the old coal and then remove it.

I had to adjust the new coal (see picture in the appendix!!). The shape doesn't have to be 100%, it drags itself in. I had to shorten the money a little bit and put it in shape. I did this with a small grinding machine, but I can also do it with a file or a dremel. I transferred the shape from the old piece of coal and tore it with a nail.
Cut the cable about 10mm before the new coal and solder with the cable that is still on the fan motor (which we cut off from the old coal) is soldered (let). The new coal used, put the spring back on it and bend the holders (while paying attention to the correct installation position of the coal, which fits in only in one position properly). When adjusting the length of the new carbon brush, make sure that you have approx. 5-7mm retains space for the spring, a little more is also not bad. That's what happens with the second coal. Then connect the motor to the battery or charger in an appropriate way with a cable to perform a functional test. The engine should now run (obviously watch your fingers!).
This action takes no more than thirty minutes if you know what you're doing.

After that, everything is reinstalled in reverse order. It is recommended to spray all parts that should slip into each other (especially the rubber bellows on the fan box in the footroom) well with silicone. This also applies to the fan motor itself which (as Dirk also noted aptly) has to be pushed into guide clips, which must not break in any way, otherwise it looks bad.
It took me four and a half hours for the whole story (to look and experiment with) and I had some cuffs before the story. But today I have to say that this is really half as wild.

At the end still look after the cooling water, depending on whether and how much has run out of the heater cooler.

So the whole thing has 4,19 euros and approx. 5ml of blood (due to its own stupidity). A price, as I think, not too high.

Best regards
Tim