If only a functional timing belt (ABH) is to be changed for age reasons or for km of running power, I suggest a simple procedure here, which will probably cause lively discussions.
Conditions:
Settings OT to camshaft etc. It's still okay.
Water pump, deflection, adjustment, etc. Tightening roll is still okay. Timing belt absorber length is in tolerance.
The engine runs perfectly at every speed even under load.
Operations until the opening of the timing belt are not mentioned here.
Operations:
1. The old timing belt, which is still mounted, is to be used with the help of a mini-separate disc (e.g. Proxxon, Dremel) are cut in the middle from the smooth side. A tool is to be manufactured: a guide rail (approx. 8 cm) with a slit on the top for the cut-off disc, a flap from the bottom (also with a slit) so that the timing belt is completely enclosed. A holder (on the guide rail) for the cutting disc unit, so that a clean cut is created and nothing can be bent.
2. The candles are turned out so that the motor can be turned more easily, since then no compression is built. Cover the candle ducts. The engine is slowly turned (crank shaft in direction of travel right around) synchronous with the working progress of the cutting disc, which is probably best placed between water pump and left camshaft wheel. Suck the chips as far as possible during separation.
3. Two of the old belts are used, removed or torn. ==References====External links==* Official website* Official website* Official website 5 cm. The one piece is rotated between the pulley and the still mounted split timing belt, while the other piece is rotated between the pulley and the timing belt. This raises the still mounted timing belt halves on both rolls to the extent that they can be pushed over the edged edges. At the same time, the tensioning roller on the vibration damper comes down a little bit and presses the compression spring together a little more.
4. The front half of the halved timing belt is now removed.
5. The new timing belt can then be mounted up to half its width (ev. With lubricant, teflon foil or similar) The rear half of the old timing belt is cut and removed. The new timing belt is gently driven with hard rubber block and nylon hammer on the rollers and gears, in all places evenly without edging.
6. The two timing belt pieces on the turning and adjusting roller are turned out by motor turning. The tensioner slips back into its original position. Control and, if necessary, adjust the timing belt length.
7. The timing belt change is finished without special tools (apart from the guide rail).
So, was meint ihr dazu?
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