Exchange of air conditioners, an experience report...

Hi,

I don't know exactly how many people here in the forum have problems with squeaking fans in their V8, but I haven't had this problem since 4 pm yesterday ;-)
To prevent further speculation: The squeaking comes from the air-conditioning fan and not from the fan motach for the temp sensor, which sits under the control panel top.

So, Saturday should actually be the day of the days to do two tasks on the V8: replace air conditioners and change gear oil. Actually, one should think that these work should be done in one day, actually ...
Ok, I haven't had a lot of experience in screwing cars, but I'd underestimated the law of the V8 time supplement once again. Without Thomas and his equipment and his tireless effort, I would certainly still be under the car...
At this point again a DICKES FETTES THANK YOU Thomas!!!

So, now back to the subject. If you want to change the air vent for a V8, you need the following:
1) A lot of time, preferably even more time.
2) Be patient.
3) The right part number for the engine.
4) Gynecologist hands, because otherwise you're going crazy.

Now for changing the air-conditioning fan:

First, remove the floor mats from the front footrooms, then remove the
Carpet cladding on the centre console/gear tunnel. Now the horizontal air distributions have to be dismantled. On the passenger side you can reach the two screws with which the air distributor is attached without any problems. On the driver's side, the panel under the steering wheel has to be unscrewed. Then you can also reach the mounting screws for the air distributor well on the driver's side. In the horizontal air distributors, the lighting for the footroom is placed, which still pull off. When the two air distributors are off, one sees a 90° angled plastic tube on the driver and on the passenger side in the centre console behind the radio. You can just pull this out. In the middle behind the radio a rubber flange is attached with a screw. This also has to be out, because you have problems pulling out the fan box. Now two cable connectors have to be released that are directly behind the radio. The plugs are directly side by side, a blue and a red plug. So, that's it in the interior.
Now open the hood and we'll be all right.
First, the washbox has to go out. So remove the windscreen wiper arms, then remove the front rubber seal of the water box, then remove the water box. This is only fixed with clamps, but should be carefully removed, as it likes to tear. When the water box has been removed, the next step is to expand the windscreen wiper mechanism completely with motor. Sounds worse than it is, because the whole unit is only fixed with three screws. Before loosening the screws, it is best to remove the connector for the power supply. After removing the windscreen wiper unit, the tensioning tape with which the air ventilator is held is released. Then remove all pneumatic hoses. Next, we go to the
Water hoses. Before that, however, open the cap on the overflow tank for the coolant. Now to the coolant hoses. These are located to the right of the housing of the fan unit, actually rather to the right below.
The hoses are directly on top of each other. Simply unscrew the hose clamps and remove them. After triggering, a lot of coolant comes out, but it is still limited and runs through the processes quickly. Now pull off the plugs for the power supplies on the fan unit. Now still the holder for
release the air-conditioning hose to the right and the cable ties that hold the hoses,
Remove. Finally, loosen the hose clamp on the connecting hose between air conditioning and fan box.
When this is done, the most difficult part of the action begins: Lifting out the fan unit. The fan unit has the bulk of a golf engine and you really have the impression that the V8 has been built around this unit. The fan unit sits on a seal that is very sticky. So try to remove this as far as possible. We used a pliers and put the seal out in pieces. You can also try to get between gasket and fan housing with another object, but you have to be careful not to damage the paint. When the seal is dissolved, the fan box should be moved. Well, what follows now is dosed violence, because the fan box doesn't come out voluntarily.
At this point we should have been filmed: Thomas on the luf filter box kneeling and I left next to it and both we tear like the knocks on the fan housing so that it finally comes out. The problem with this is that you have hardly any room for the hood and the whole stuff has to pass the air conditioning hoses and cable strands!
So, after almost 2.5 hours we had expanded the fan unit. Changing the fan itself is not really a topic. To do this, only three screws must be loosened, with which a plastic cap is attached over the fan wheel and then the locking ring with which the fan motor is held. Then you can push the fan motor out of the housing. Now best
Clean the case with glass cleaner. If you look closer at the installation location of the fan motor in the housing, you will notice that the motor is stored by three rubber buffers, which are in guides in the plastic housing. Remove these, too, then you can clean everything better. Put the rubber buffer back in and lubricate with Vaseline, otherwise it is difficult to install the new engine. New engine? There was something?
Oh yes, you should already have the current part number for the engine, because otherwise you can look like a pig at the clockwork on Saturday at 12 o'clock! I had taken the number for the fan engine from the ETKA: 443 959... That's the wrong number! The right one starts with 4A0 959... On! I probably didn't have the current update, aaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrgghhhh!
The motors differ only in the fan wheel, that of the fan with the part number 443 959... It's definitely too long!
Okay, if you've built in the new right engine, the assembly will go back in the opposite direction.
Before installation, however, you should renew some seals on the fan housing and above all the seal between the fan box and the body! The seals are not expensive but important. I'll give you the required parts numbers separately, I'll write a post for the FAQ section again.
Anyone who claims that you can change the fan housing including all the necessary work in half an hour is clearly on the wrong steamer. The replacement of the fan motor alone can be easily achieved in five minutes. For the entire action with changing the important seals, removing old sealing residues, dismantling of electrical systems, pneumatic and water hoses, internal claddings etc. You should schedule at least three to four hours if you know how to do it.
We did not know exactly how to do it on Saturday and needed almost three hours alone for the removal of the claddings, for the removal of parts, plug connections and for the expansion of the fan box. For the installation we took another two and a half hours. Now that you know how to do it, you'd be able to do it faster, but you should be extremely patient when installing the fan box!
But the work was really worth it!

Well, because we couldn't continue working on the fan because of the wrong part number on Saturday at 12 o'clock, we then went on to change the transmission oil - and our "joy tear", which actually resembled a big handle in the middle of the brown, continued.
The action in brief: disassemble X-pipe, let 14 screws flex four equally, four are done by puk saw, five can be pulled off by overturning (on the cracker tube) and one must be drilled. Two of the sawn-off screws are so screwed that they still have to be drilled despite sawing.
But all in all, this action was also really worth it! The old transmission oil did not look so bad, in the tub was not an excessive mucus layer, but the exchange of the filter sieve and the transmission oil really did do something. I was actually satisfied with the automatic before the change. She actually turned clean. But since the change of transmission oil and filter sieve you can no longer notice switching, except at the rev indicator !

Thanks again to Thomas! This is not often enough to be said. The Commission's ;-))

Oh, just for information. Because the intake tube on the right side of the fan box has covered the filler nozzle of the transmission oil, which is also the place of introduction for the transmission oil rod, we have removed it for measuring the transmission oil level. If you drive without this one intake tube, then the baby really has much more sound, old Swede! If you drive normally, then it still works, but if you give gas, then the engine roars quite clearly in the middle speed range !

Best regards from Kiel

Maadin