ABH V8 problem

and when the gasket (Material like Bakelit) breaks you dont win the Game

Gasket with bakelit??
Where is it?

on the Weel of the Distributor... show @ Attachment, the broken part i mean

Hi,

Any progress? Did you found new hall sensor and/or whole distributor?

I measured my air mass meter and it's faulty, gives only 3.3 volts on 4000rpm and now needing new one.
Does anyone have ideas where to find one in reasonable price?

Regs Sami

Hi Sami,

best is to head for the market place here in the Forum (left menu) and ask for one! They brake pretty seldom, hence it makes sense to take a used one for little money.

Bastian

I have changed the Hall-giver. No difference..
What next?
ECU damaged?
The 2 sensors at flywheel?

Im getting sick of this problem.

Hey man! U live in Norway right? I live in Eidsvoll. And I got VAG-COM that may set us on the right track.

I bought a sparepart/donor V8 for my V8 project a fiew years ago. It had the same problem. And I`m planning to use that particular engine for my car when I`m done. So for that reason allso, It would be interesting to try to help you...
(Guess cars aren`t moderne anymore when I`m finished...)

Have you checked the signal? I belive you wrote that it was 0,0-0,7 volts. the important indication is wether or not the signal oscilates (goes up and down). If it does not - (After the engine is worm) the lambda is screwed!

Looking forward to hear from you!
Per-Stian

Forklar gjerne på norsk:-)
Du er medlem på VACN klubben, sett deg der inne.

Jeg har jo prøvd å byttet lambda 2 ganger. NYE!
Ingen forskjell. Jævlig rart.

Hejsa

Har du også prøvet at lægge en extra stel ledning til lampda'en
det kan godt være et problem med stel

Hilsen fra DK

jepp..
Ny lambdasonde (prøvd 2 stk)
Ny hallgiver i fordeler
Pluggledninger, plugger som nytt
Montert jordingskabel mellom lambdasonde og motorblokk.
Kompresjons test- 180-185PSI på alle sylindre.

Av og på følelse under akselerasjon. Fin ved fullgass.
Kobler man fra lambda blir den fin.
Typisk kjennetegn på at lambdasonde er defekt- men ikke hos meg..
Kan Hjerne/ECU være ett forslag å bytte?
De 2 sensorne ved svinghjul?

Det sto forresten en Biltema universal lambda på bilen når jeg kjøpte bilen. Under en Måned senere begynte den å fjuske mye, sjekket feilkoder. Lambda kom opp.
Skiftet den og fjuskingen forsvant- ingen feilkoder etterpå. Men den hadde/Har pulserende- Av og på akselerasjon.
Feilkodene ble selfølgelig slettet.

Benny
Om du ser over i tråden ser du at han har prøvd det, men tipset er absolutt ett bra tips..

(Danish friend suggesting a separate grounding wire - But this has allready been attempted without further luck....)

Svein:
Som jeg skreiv så er den første indikasjonen på at lambdaen lever at signalet (volten) du leser av på den svarte ledningen flukturerer. vanlige verdier jeg har vært borti på S6 4,2 AEC og 100 2,8 Q (denne har to) er at signalet skal flukturere/ "svinge" rundt 0,6 volt. (Mål imellom jord på karrosseriet og den svarte signalledningen) dvs opp til ca 0,8-0,9 og så ned til 0,3-0,4 volt. Jo varmere den blir, jo fortere svinger signalet. Dersom den gjør det kan du "friskemelde" lambdaen. Det er viktig i feilsøkingen at du får "røyka ut" om dritten funker eller ikke. Det er ikke "bankers" at deler du kjøper funker 100% . Dersom den gir det signalet jeg beskriver kan du fortsette.
Har du forresten lest ut feilminnet på bilen noen gang?

In English:
As I wrote: the first indication of life from the Lambda is that the Signal (Voltage) You can read from the black wire is fluctuating/Oscilating. Values I`ve been aquainted with on S6 AEC and 100 2,8 (This actually has two sensors) is that the signal should Oscillate around 0,6 volt. (Measure between ground on the chassis and the black signalwiere) In other words: signal should reach 0,8-09 volts and then return to 0,3-0,4 volts. The warmer it gets, the quicker it oscilates. If it does - the Lambda is fat and happy, and you should proceed... don`t settle just because you have replaced it. Measure and find out for real that it works or not. throwing parts at it is just expensive.
Have you ever attempted to download the fault memory?

Best regards from Eidsvoll Norway
psb

Har lest av feilminnet ja. Det gjorde jeg når Biltema universal Lambdan begynte å tulle. Les forrige innlegg.
Begge de 2 Lambda jeg har prøvd er splitter nye Bosch.

Another issue is that the above mentioned test is just an INDICATION. the values might actually be faulty, but because the value oscolates and stay between the mentioned above 0,1 volt and under 1,2 volt the ECU will not understand that the value is wrong...this sucks - but is just the way the system is designed.
I know some engines are really picky about wich Lambda they get. Is the one you tried an Original from VAG?

I belive the two sensors on the fly wheel (Engine speed and TDC) are either working or not. Nothing in between. If the dont work, You sholud get a fault code.
psb

Orginal from VAG yes...
It run ok with a BILTEMA universal Lambda when i bought the car....
Har du ei Hovedlykt til overs? venstre side foran.

OK so the Lambda should be OK. But still do the test, and see if it oscilates. If this does not work, and as you say the engine runs smoother without the lambda (In limp home mode) this indicates that there still is "gremlins" in the exhaust "follow up/feedback system".

The next Idea i have is to ask one of the suppliers that sell chip upgrades. Some of these guys really know what they are talking about. And he would definetly be able to tell wether the lambda function is working or not if he hooks the car up to hes computers. Tell me if you do, bacause I would really like to show up and learn - If you don`t live to far away.

Best reards from Eidsvoll.