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stranger
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stranger
Registriert seit: Oct 2010
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Hello all

I'm a long time audi nut, 1985 UR, 1998 S4, and 1990 V8 3.6, based in UK, on the south coast.

My V8 is fairly low mileage, and little used right now. I have some plans to play with it a little. Not much, but enough to make it interesting.

But right now, it has a few small issues.

Auto Box.
Probably needs flushing and refilling, but I'm sure it's not functioning correctly.
3 position switch. I often forget to put this in normal when I switch off. Sometimes, the solenoid function on the 3 position switch doesn't turn it back slug mode from sport mode when starting.
If I do start in normal, it feels like it holds a lower gear for too long. Selecting out of normal, and back again clears this immediately.
Sport mode seems fine.
Kickdown seems to take too long.

Seriously thinking about converting to manual, so any pointers to people that have done this would be useful.

It's taken to overheating recently. Compression tests don't show anything nasty. I'll look at the viscous coupling for the fan, but it does this at mid cruising speed, when surely the fan should be disengaged?



Mit freundlichen Grüßen Marcus
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Carpal \'Tunnel
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Carpal \'Tunnel
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Hi,

a warm welcome from another V8 nut who was already a helping hand on importing two right hand driven V8 the last couple of years from the UK

You get reliable information about the V8 in general and a conversion to manual at the V8-mailinglist at audifans.com - the US guys do that pretty often!

Regarding your problems:

1) Are you sure that the Kickdown works at all? Maybe the switch is broken. That's a quite usual problem. The transmission may still shift back a gear when you open the throttle valve wide enough. The engine should rev up to more than 6400upm when you kick down. Is it?

2) It is usual that the tranmission keeps in a low gear the first couple of minutes after you start the engine. The basic idea is that the engine becomes warm quicker and that the catalysators heat up quicker. The trick with switching to "M" and back again is well-known. Alternatively, you just have to drive faster than approx. 45mph.

3) Transmission fluid (ATF) exchange together with the filter (impoertant!) shouild happen all 40k miles! If never done, do it! You'll have to remove the exhaust in order to remove the transmission oil tray where the filter is located. Also clean the magnets in the tray, and buy a new gasket for the tray. Also be sure to measure the amount of fluid correclty (only when it's warm!). Otherwise you could seriously damage the AT.

4) I'm pretty sure that there has never been an RHD manual V8 - have you ever seen one?

5) Overheating problem: You may double-check your temperature sensors (one located at the bottom of the radiator, the other one at the front of the engine) - when they fail, your electric fan may be disabled. You should also check the metal fuse in the front of the hydraulic fluid reservoir and the reails for the electric fan levels. The electric (auxilary) fan should in any case run when the AC is activated. If it doesn't, it's a fault of the fuse or the respective relay for level 1.

But all that usually doesn't lead to overheating. It's more likely that your radiator became silted up. It may even be that fluid is able to circulate, but it's not really cooled any more. We had that on one of the two UK V8, it was like that car was ran by normal water for ages. A wonder that there were no fishes swimming around in the cooling fluid...

Another not so usual problem is the thermostat controlling the cooling fluid circulation. It's pretty cheap, an exchange is always a good idea.

A cooling fluid radiator flush could also help, in case it's not yet completely silted up.

When you say overheating: How hot was the engine? The PT engine (3.6) is usually not very sensible to overheating, not too much worries.

6) I will be on the UK south coast in October. near Eastbourne. If you'd like to meet... let me know.

In general, what you describe doesn't sound like any serious transmission problem. You may relax As the UK has pretty strong speed limits and most UK V8s have a pretty low mileage, I guess that most tranmissions haven't been victim to consequent kickdown abuses - good

By the way, the two V8s we've imported from UK can be
found in the Car-DB. The first is from Derbyshire, the second one from Ashford (could be nearby you).

Could you provide some more details about your V8? Interior, color, history, mileage... I'm curious

Regards

Bastian

Registriert seit: Oct 2010
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stranger
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stranger
Registriert seit: Oct 2010
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1990, 3.6l. Silverish. I'll dig up the paint code later.

Leather interior, sports front seat i believe. heated, etc.
Pretty much original.
the low mileages is in respect to averages- 75k

Unfortunately, I don't really get a chance to use it much. Too busy.

As for investigating the problems further- I probably should start a new thread for this, but i'll do a little more searching through the rest of the site first.
I need to get into the thermostat. But the screws are too tight. So i need to do some more serious dismantling to get in there.

The overheating is showing as a very heavily pressurised system, with rising temperature, and low fluid. Actually, the low fluid is the first indicator.


Mit freundlichen Grüßen Marcus
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Carpal \'Tunnel
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Carpal \'Tunnel
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Hi,

how much degrees did the engine get?

Be careful with the screws of the thermostat - it's usual that you don't get them out after 20 years or more and you may end up in drilling new holes and making new windings. Put a lot of rust remover on it and let it react long enough. And yes, in that case it would make sense to remove some more parts to get the right force to lose the screws.

Still, I'm pretty sure the radiator is your problem... but it's not that cheap at all.

Bastian

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Pooh-Bah
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Pooh-Bah
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Hi Mark,

overheating:
First you should find out the reason for the low coolant fluid level. Leaky hoses, a worn coolant pump or a blown cylinder head gasket might be the cause.
As Bastian said: Flood the thermostat cover bolts with WD40 or something like that for a long term, before trying to undo them. Thumping the bolt heads with a small hammer might also be helpful.

Due to the age of your car - irrespective of the low mileages - the timing belt should be renewed (if it isn't already done). In connection with the tooth belt renewing, replacing of all rollers, tensioner and coolant pump is even required.


Beste Grüße
Tim
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Carpal \'Tunnel
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Carpal \'Tunnel
Registriert seit: Aug 2002
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Hi,

AT to manual conversion:

http://www.germanautoconnection.com/5-speed_conversion.htm

In English

Bastian


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