forum.audiv8.com Foren English Audi V8 Forum Fault codes and output tests

Running the codes and output tests on my Silver car, I get a small anomaly.

I get one code- 2342. For all purposes here, the car is PT engined. Electronics etc, but with ABT chip. The code 2342 is O2 sensor signal. Currently, the car feels very strong, albeit the occasional heavy puff of oil smoke.

It keeps repeating the same code with the engine running. 2342/2342/2342 etc.
Is this correct diagnostic code operation? Obviously, I need to investigate the 2342 code itself. But I was expecting a final 0000, to indicate all the codes have been dumped. Or does it just fill memory with 2342 untilthe fault is cleared?

I cannot make it run output tests. Is this a function of the fault codes- clear faults before running output tests?

I am using my Silver car to better understand the system, before tackling the black car. This may be a problem for me, though, as the Silver car is running electronic mods, plus a dirty great oil leak across the back of left cylinder head, which is probably fouling the O2 connections.
The Black car is completely standard, and running on 7 cylinders right now.

Are there any known issues with codes from the ABT equipped ECU?

please tell me how way you get the fault-codes!

normally the output end with 0000, but i think i know your error... more about when you told me your way

Roy

I think I know what you are going to say, but I kinda got there first!
Doh!

For those reading this and wondering WTF.
It (the ECU codes) will keep repeating the code, UNTIL you force it to step to the next code, using the same method as you did to start the sequence.

So. I got there.
And the result is, my ECU sees a fault with the O2. That is the only code for ECU.
And TCU is no codes stored.

Simples.

Display output can wait until tomorrow, assuming no Glasgow sunshine.
And getting into the output test can wait until then, also.

In Antwort auf:

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using the same method as you did to start the sequence.

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okay, that's allright

I thought, you mean the codes should be displayed one at the next... without an input... but you did it well... i don't know what's the problem is, sorry... put some nails in the [censored] ECU and you got your problems solved

I managed to find my link for the SJM site, so got it sussed. My working space is not ideal- balancing laptops on engines, no light, soft gravel drive, etc.

O2 sensor problem?
The back of the left bank is rather saturated in oil, so I would guess that maybe the electrical connections are a little/lot grubby, and not getting good contact. I need the car clean, cold, and up in the air to take a better look.

The exercise was really to get the hang of puling the codes, and running the output tests on a know working car, before tackling the unknown of the black V8.

ECU output tests.
These sort of worked, in that the LED was blinking out the code for each injector being fired- 4411-4414 for right bank, 4421-4424 for the left bank. However, I could not feel the injectors being activated. How positive a feel is there? Or should I connect a meter across the terminals? It's not that convenient.

Also. With the injectors, maybe I read the info wrong, but moving the throttle arm is supposed to step to the next injector. Will this only happen once it has completed all 5 pulses? It only seems to step after several cycles through on each component.

The ISV, Charcoal canister, etc were all very audible, and easily felt.

TCU outputs likewise. very obvious.

Currently, only one actual fault on the Silver car.

On the black car, I am expecting several issues- O2, Throttle switch, Air temp. A major question is the problem affecting #8 injector.

But we're getting there.
Thanks for your patience...

well... you talk about LED... you got a manual transmission?

No. Both are Auto's.
the silver car shows no other faults than the O2 sensor. So, I am fairly pleased with that.

Now.
The Black car.

ECU/TCU tests seem to work. In addition, the output tests for the ECU, Injectors, it was very easy to hear the Solenoid clicking for each injector. There were no faults at all from the ECU.

TCU s another matter.
1243/1233/1241/1311/2131
All 4 wheel sensors seem to be recorded as faulty. But the ABS appears to working- the light is controllable, it is out after start, and doesn't come on, ever, while driving.
But for now, this is not so important.

With no ECU faults present, and the output tests showing ok, I am left wondering why there is such a lack of power.

One plug seems like it may be at fault. So that will be changed fairly shortly. they are all new.
The fuel pump is quite noisy. Might there be a pressure issue. Unfortunately, I have very little kit with me to help diagnose.

Guidance, Bitte.

Both are automatic transmissions, why do you wrote about LED? you can use the gear display, you don't need a separate LED...

So, your black car has a problem with power? there are many malfunction of parts they not will displayed at the faultcodes, heaven knows why...

you should search the faults without ECU/TCU-Diagnostics!

A noisy fuel pump can be damaged, but it's not a must, my fuelpump now and then is also noisy, but still works... if you find no other faults, you should replase it... so now we go on to search the faulty component...

Do you have parts to measure the fuel compression?
Something about black smoke?
Is the powerless at every time or like waves?
At low or high engine speed?
Whats about the consumption (oil and fuel)?
Startproblems at cold machine?
Or problems to start afters it's hot?

First of all-

The LED is used to blink out ECU codes
The Auto selector display blinks out the TCU codes.
And this all works fine, on both cars.

Power issues

The car is down on power constantly.
It starts well.
It immediately idles at steady RPM, but there is a hint of 'lumpiness'
It will rev off load. But if you open the throttle, there is an instant hesitation.
Acceleration is sluggish at best. Like it may be pulling a trailer.
(the brakes are free, and wheels spin fine, so it's not a dragging brake)
The engine exhaust note is not a clean, steady sound. It is quite coarse.
Fuel consumption is very high. 17mpg / 16.6L100km at motor way cruising 60mph


I am currently working in Glasgow, and only have a few of my tools with me. And no working space as such. So dismantling cars to identify faults is not really an option at present.

I do not have any kit here to measure fuel pressure.

I shall go back to basics, now, I think.

The engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago, and then the car was in storage. So I shall take a look at timing when conditions allow.

In Antwort auf:

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The LED is used to blink out ECU codes
The Auto selector display blinks out the TCU codes.

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NO! ALL codes will be displayed!

Okay, its not relevant for your problem so we go on...

If your transmission is in emergency programm, so it will be permanently at the 3th gear, do you feel so or does it shift well all four gears?

If it shift well, go on:

pull out the plug from the Sensor UNDER the distributor at passenger side, if no change visible, put it back

pull out the plug from lambda, it's deep under the distributor driver side, look at picture in

That's curious.

Certainly sure the engine codes came out on the LED, and the Transmission codes came out on the shift indicator, on both cars.
Being right hand drive, UK models, I wonder if this is because the instrument clusters are very different? Our shift indicator is in the middle, under the central 6 warning lamps in UK. European cars have 9 central warning lamps in the middle, and the shift indicator is offset to the left, near the secondary instruments. Essentially UK V8s have something like Audi200turbo instruments from UK models. But, I'll take another look.

Black car
The auto box is shifting up and down ok; Reasonably smoothly. Good thing, as it was overhauled not so very long ago, mileage wise. 2007/2008, with receipts in excess of £2500 for the gearbox overhaul.

It will kick down, also. But overall, it is sluggish.
Certainly it starts off in a low gear, and shifts up through the range.
I have had the car up to 90mph. But it takes a long while, and doesn't have the smooth power delivery you'd expect.

Maybe, the ignition timing is off?
Because of my lack of facilities, much of this is based on best guess. There's not even a local workshop that would know much about these cars.

Execute my hints...

Your description sounds like your car is runnig "to fat", it means, to much fuel at the burning... thirsty but weaky accelerate... the first steps to explore the guilty part for yours machines thirst is to follow my hints

Well, the Glasgow sunshine was very evident today, so I had to forgo the idea of standing in the rain pulling this and that off. Plus, I think They might notice that I've abandoned the car in the staff carpark. (They don't take kindly to people repairing cars in the staff carpark)
Hopefully, menana.

Watch this space.

Take time so much you need, it's your car and your problem it's should be fit

i only try to help you as so good as i can... the english part of this forum is not really often visited by the other members, not to mention they can/want to give a response in your language... to me it isn't easy, but a relativ good training

Troubleshooting continues...

The black car starts and runs whether the connection on the right hand distributor is on or not. There doesn't appear to be any difference in running.

You mean the Hall Sensor?

At idle it changes nothing,
but if your driving, you feel a litle less power and a higher fuel consumption.

Well, it may be then that my hall sensor has at least a bad connection. A short run with it off made no difference. Reconnected, actually improved matters, briefly. Throttle response was certainly better.
The distributor mounted connection feels very unstable.

Yes, it is quite flimsy,
i already demolished the connector at the distributor with
pushing the plug on the connector.

I don`t know if its tighter in new condition.

I have a full set of spares from the old engine that died, but these are 500miles away.
Still. I could do with a break.