forum.audiv8.com Foren English Audi V8 Forum She lives- 1990 V8

She started as a fairly nice to drive 3.6PT. She's now resurrected as a 4.2ABH.

Currently, running the electronics and everything else as before, the engine is running very nice.

As a true hooligan, I've emptied the cats. Or rather, the right cat. The left was already empty.
So, the exhaust is a bit of a mix- X-pipe and Cat pipes from the 3.6 setup, then centre and rear box from the 4.2.
As a 3.6 it was quiet.
As a 4.2 in normal spec, it had a bit more growl
In it's current guise, it's rather interesting on heavy throttle, and still refined on cruise throttle. Nice!
Next on the list is a chip for the ECU.

Later, I'll get a full stainless exhaust and I might install the electronics for the 4.2 if a chip can be found.

So all smiles for a few hours until-
the tensioner for the accessory belt is not tensioning properly. So, I started to remove the right cambelt cover, and lo and behold, a bolt head stripped! So, loads of progress, and then a grinding halt for a few days. Back to it for the weekend, though.
I can't wait.

And deferring to Bastian, she shall hence forth be know as PITA!

Congrats!
you already had the car on the road?


I am not sure but i had in mind that the X-Pipe from the ABH has a little bit more diameter,
the cat pipes as well.
So i think the engine can breathe better
The headers are from the ABH ?

The x-pipe for the ABH is a convoluted affair, physically it felt lighter, but diameter wise, connecting bores are pretty much the same.
I sold it to a guy keeping his ABH car original.

The cat pipes are the same diameter entry, ABH or PT. exit is 55mm o/d on the PT, and 60mm o/d on the ABH. Cat temp sensor connections are in slightly different positions, and types of connection.
The original PT cats were emptied of their broken contents. So they are now straight through, unrestricted.
Again, I sold the cats from the ABH setup as they were in useable condition, and I don't need the cats. The chap who bought them was in dire need, as his X-pipe and cats had been seriously messed with.
I then used the joining sleeves from the old PT exhaust to couple up the different diameters. I shall fit a full stainless system later, anyway, so selling those parts mitigates the cost of buying the donor car somewhat.

I reused the original PT headers for now. Keeping the ABH headers for later. There didn't appear to be any great difference, save for the flex section in the ABH left header.

Not perfect, but it works well. And now it has the much nicer tail exits of the ABH. And a more glorious note. I'll be sad and geeky and youtube a video when it's all back together fully.

I thought they where different.

Anyways Congrats again, to keep a V8 alive!

I've nearly got enough parts left over to rebuild a second car I had my eye on, if only the current owner would respond.

Sadly, he is breaking 2. One of which is viable.
A breakers yard not so far away is breaking another
And I'm breaking the bent grey thing.

20% survival rate...

Hej Mark,

as those RHD V8s are very, really _very_ rare, I wonder if you could share some pics from the ones you saw becoming broken and the ones you have yourself

Great to hear that it's back on the road!

Bastian

HI,

you didn't mix an ABH block with PT (cylinder) heads, did you? They have different borings...

Bastian

I found out today that the '92 4.2 that I am breaking is probably an ex-Audi/Milton Keynes car. Which would explain the high mileage in the first 5 years. The paperwork (what little there is) didn't indicate any of this though.

It's in a very sorry state.
I have salvaged the aluminium radiator mounting as mine was damaged by morons, but even that is damaged.
The headlight mounts were smashed, and held together with rivets.
Front chassis rails are a little bent, and although the car drives ok, it's pretty clear that something is amiss.
The bonnet barely clears the windscreen wipers when shut, and rubs the wipers when you lift it. It's about an inch (or 25.4 of those little european units you use) too far back.
Right front wing is curved outward markedly.
Left front wing is curved downward, so all in all, the bonnet never looks shut. And it's 2 tone grey under certain lighting.
Front subframe mounts were damaged, and never replaced.
Radiator was obviously damaged by the viscous and electric fans, and this has been repaired by use of some aluminium repair compound- a surprise it didn't overheat! Accident damage- Painted wings, but keep a buggered rad?
The gearbox shifts nicely, but sport mode is non functioning- electronic problems? Kick down is random, but mostly too late for any use. I don't know much about these cars yet. My knowledge, such as it is, is really concentrated on the 10v turbo quattro.
Inside the roof lining is grubby and sagging.
The instruments are working, but the autocheck is dead, as is the clock.
It's got rust in the rear valance below the boot lid, and a couple of spots around the C-pillars.

All this on a car described by the previous owner as having spent thousands (of £) keeping it running nicely, only need the attention of a dent repair specialist to push out a little dent on the door!

A shame really.

I'm keeping the interior now. The front seats are a little different from the norm, as pointed out by a Polish chap I met the other day. He thinks they are ur-S4 seats. They work, anyway. Unlike the stereo,which is lacking a key-code card, but has a 10disc Blaupunkt changer attached.

under the rear seats is a small assortment of additional electronics of indeterminate nature, including a a small battery, like a sealed unit, computer storage backup unit.
When I'm finished, this shell will be available, if anyone wants it...

Of the other cars being broken, the guy promised me pictures weeks ago, but they never arrived, and he's not responding.
It all goes to make my car rarer though, and next year I'll be seeking a left drive Manual transmission version, if they exist for sale.

Congrats!!! on excellent revival job. Enjoy ur ride.

I'm guessing at present that it's just a side effect of being in pieces in the elements for several months-

Front indicators, left and right are inoperative. Right side repeater also. The side repeater is not a big issue as such, and I guess to check it, I need to go in via the wheel well rear liner.

front indicators- Guessing it's related to the multi-pin plug on the right chassis rail. Bulbs are fine. All was working before the start of the original engine removal.

Progress-
Last night saw me doing a budget cambelt change. It's about time, and budget and time constraints mean that only the belt was replaced. All the other components are in very good condition, so may have not had a huge amount of use from a previous cam belt change. Anyway, I shall do a more comprehensive job after christmas.
I opted to do the cambelt change when i found that the accessory belt tensioner wasn't tensioning the belt properly. As a result, the hydraulic pump wasn't being driven at low rpm. So the right-side cam belt cover needed to come off, and this seemed an opportune moment to do the cambelt.

Note to self. 20 year old cars need a huge amount of engine bay cleaning before embarking on similar jobs in future!

In Antwort auf:

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front indicators- Guessing it's related to the multi-pin plug on the right chassis rail. Bulbs are fine. All was working before the start of the original engine removal.

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If the foglights arent working too, it should be the multi-pin plug,
btw. i always forget to connect it as well,
if i had taken of the bumper...

My girl...

omg,

remove those awful rims A 16" BBS or, even better for my personal taste, a 17" Bolero would fit way better.

Nevertheless, my warmest congrats - great to see it back on the road! What I'd love to see are more pics from inside, even though we have some RHDs already running here in the forum.

I think she was really worth being saved - as every V8 is, really! So how is the ABH engine doing? A great difference, isn't it?

Best regards
Bastian

Ah,

I wanted to ask you if you could probably make photos of this 4.2 car you've disassembled - especially, again , from the interior!

You may have the common Audi V8 4,2 ABH sport seats, or also called post-face-lift seats. They indeed the same ones as in the Ur-S4. Do you have memory?

Could you tell a bit more about the battery and the computer unit under the rear seats?

Manual LHD V8s are rare, but you can find one, probably. Let us know when you start to look for one, probably we can help! Taking a V8 over to the UK should be at least as much fun as taking one back "home" from the UK

Regards

Bastian

To answer both your repostes!

Yes the wheels are exceedingly dull. I have 16in BBS to go on- but they are in a pretty rough condition. In fact, I have 2 sets plus a spare. but only 1 tyre.
The set of 4 on the donor car is actually running 225/60-16, and these scuff the arch liners a bit. And the tyres are mismatched. I'm tempted to use them, but they need a refurb.

The other set have no tyres at present, and also need a refurb. I've been quoted £80 per wheel to do them, which is a little steep right now, as my new job is not starting until next week. And then there's tyres to do, too. So not a lot of change from £700.

Photos. I shall do, but right now, my main priority is getting the car fully serviceable for next week, as I shall be doing a good few long trips in it. So, photos will have to take a back seat right now. I can't remember the full speck of the donor car, but it seemed to have most of the normal spec.

I have today wired in my new Sony stereo (bought for my ur) it has Bluetooth interface, USB stick MP3 compatible, and is working nicely. So now I have tunes again, hands free calling with my iPhone, and iPod via bluetooth.. Just need an adaptor for the antenna lead, for radio.

Nice!
Colourcode LY7Y?

I have no idea about the colour. Shameful, I know. It's silver of some sort.
It looks ok from a distance, but needs a lot of cosmetic work. Like a crease in front passenger door. A bad respray on the bonnet. And myriad scuffs and scratches. So, best viewed at a distance for now.

Same with my car, dent on the bonnet, scratches in both fenders...

Fair enough, I'll get me camera....

A couple of images from the interior of Pita-





When I get back in December, I'll take some more of this, and the donor car.
The donor car does not have memory on the seats, while mine does. Which is a small shame, as I like the extending thigh supports of the other interior, which is black. And I like the idea of Black leather interior.

The car was running well for several days, a couple of decent 100mile + cruises, to Gatwick and back, and a fair amount of local town and short sprint stuff mixed in. All was well.

On the way back from a friends house, en-route returning from Gatwick, I stopped, small top up of fuel (10litres, but only 95ron), and the car would start, but wouldn't idle.
I kept it running with a little use of the throttle, and nursed it 10miles to a different fuel station, the car was a little off.
Filled with 30litres and the car ran fine after.

OK, so I'm thinking contaminated fuel, or the likes.

Fast forward to today.
Full tank fuel, 99ron, 200miles without issue. Got into some traffic, and then it hesitated, and finally (after belching some blue smoke!) ran a bit rough. I stopped, checked fluids, everything else looking normal. Oil pressures good- just under 2 bar idle, between 4 and 5 bar on load, temps are showing oil just above 60/just indicating. Water temp positive indication, but hasn't been close to 1st solid mark on the gauge which I think is 90degreesC.
Started the car, it wouldn't idle.

After a few minutes, the car is able to idle, albeit a little eratic. And the blue smoke had disappeared. OIl quantity confirmed good, and clean.

I didn't have the opportunity to pull the plugs.

My first instinct is the ISV, but how would this affect normal running? The car was a little rough during normal driving. I kept it gentle, fairly low load, max 2500rpm.
Is it possible I have an issue with a crank breather valve? In which case, where is it likely to be.
Fuel contamination? Or filter issues. Well, I am putting it in for a service in December, unless it's forced on me sooner. I'll get oil, oil filter, fuel filter(s) etc. And I want to change the front and rear diff fluids too.

I'm somewhat isolated from any tools, spares, and have no time for tinkering this week (training courses) or indeed for the next 4 weeks. So investigating is not a luxury I have time for.
Any pointers from those in the know, I'd be most grateful.

ECU fault memory readout - could be a good start. Cleaning the ISV is never a failure, cleaning all the connectors on the ISV and the throttle vavle potentiometer as well is also recommended (corrosion on the connectors is common).
Additionally, you could check for leak air on the underpressure hoses, that may cause troubles. And, plugging off the Lambda sensor is also a usual first step.

hth

Bastian

Rats!
All the things that I am geographically challenged for doing right now.

I'll do a simple disconnect/reconnect of the connections I can access tomorrow, and see how it goes. Otherwise, it's hand t over to one of the very few specialists on V8 engines around this country. I'm currently 300miles from home/tools and 100miles from people I trust.

A little update-

The car starts fine from cold. It is warm start/running that it initially has issues idling. Which go away generally after about a minute.

Hopefully there's some folk about watching to add invaluable advice...

The odd issue of poor/nil idle when starting from fully warm is consistent, and annoying. I have a few days off, a little spare time, so I shall tackle this- I have the spare ISV and Throttle Position switch/pot from the older/lower mileage 3.6V8 setup as a spare.

Today, leaving a motorway service station, the car decided to stop in what seems like 3rd gear- 3000rpm=60mph. I actually felt the car lurch a little as it downshifted quite abruptly. I stayed in drive and just drove slower.
When I finally got home, shifting into reverse was quite a harsh shift, likewise into drive.
Turn off ignition, waited, and turned it back on again, and all seemed fine.
Is this related to the running issues? Or is it another problem waiting to hurt?

The rolling shell V8 that I'm breaking is still available, but I have very little time to salvage anything. Do I need to get at the multifunction switch?
This is the original transmission from the 3.6 that is playing up right now, and it didn't do this previously with the 3.6 setup.
So the main difference is really the throttle pot/throttle position switch.

I hope someone can shed some light.
If you have anything that you can add, my email is mark.hanman@yahoo.com, so that I can monitor emails on my mobile while tinkering.

I made my fault code lead up today.

I managed to pull codes-

2111
As I understand it, 2111 is the engine RPM sensor

2342
(from the SJM site)
Signal shorted to ground or to +12V,
Fuse #5 blown, O2 Sensor heating element not working,
Ground problem between ECU pin 10 and engine block,
fuel pressure too low or too high, intake or exhaust system leak, defective ignition system component,
intake air leak after air mass sensor, O2 sensor is faulty
Overly rich exhaust, Spark Plug fouling,

I did not get any codes from the TCU or Instruments, but I wonder if I'm doing it right.

So, the diagnostic sockets on the floor under the passenger carpet.

ECU codes- between left black (12v connection) and yellow upper connection.

TCU codes- between left black (12v connection) and and second black upper connection.

Instrument cluster codes-codes are found between left black (12v connection) and brown lower connection.

I can start the process with the link between ground and lower connection of the second black connector.

All taken from here-
http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/ecufv8.html#V8fault

Have I missed anything?