forum.audiv8.com Foren English Audi V8 Forum Engine Stopped

Yesterday when i was turning a bend at very slow speed, i felt the engine missed once and after reaching home while engine still idling stopped.The engine did not start again.if i continue starter motor, it seems engine ll start but has not started.i filled the tank 2 weeks back and drove 240km in city. may be fuel filter problem or else like impure gasoline?any solution?

Hi,

sounds a bit like the engine speed sensor. Read out the engine fault codes (ECU) properly (no need of extra hardware) and you'll know more.

Best regards

Bastian

Dear Bastien,
unfortunately, i don't know much about ECU codes.Where it ll be written and how to decode them?
Thanks for your guidance

hello
you need a special software like VAS with an Adaptercabel to connect to the ECU for Audi and VW.
The switches are under the right passenger food mat,which the relais are.
Maybe a Audi and Vw Wokshop can help with the decode.

nope, he need NOTHING... like Bastian wrote...
but to write a manual in english is my (technical) english to bad

German manual you will find @ FAQ

German short manual, maybe Bablfish help or someone translate:

Zündung an, dann nimmt man eine Sicherung und stöpselt sie für etwa 5 Sekunden in das Benzinpumpenrelais im Beifahrerfussraum, die Codes werden bei der Gangwahlanzeige angezeigt, Codes @FAQ

oder man nimmt eine Drahtbrücke und macht das selbe wie mit der Sicherung beim Benzinpumpenrelais aber nicht am Relais sondern an den Diagnosesteckern, Fotos und Codes dazu @ FAQ

codes i found and there is given a simple way of using LED to reveal the code.i ll see if i can use it properly or not.the URL is http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/ecufv8.html

Good...

but you need NO LED

watch at the third picture, use only the connection wire A-B an the Codes you will see at the "gear-selection-display"

well i checked the code using a small bulb 1.4w/12v and a jumper wire. the code was 2111. i think it is related to engine speed sensor. now what to do to fix the problem? thanx

Hi Munir,

as the code is true, you can only replace the speed sensor. And it's a well know problem.

i cranked the engine.it started but after longer cranking but stopped in few seconds. after many hours i switched on and blinked the code which was 2111.it is said at http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/ecuf20v.html "This fault code reading sequence should be done with the engine running because if the engine is not running you may get a false code (2111 or 2112, RPM and TDC sensors) or 2234 (supply Voltage) code even though there is nothing wrong with these items".How to proceed?

Hi,

do it again. Turn the key, crank the engine, keep the ignition on (don't turn it off!) and readout the fault codes. If the 2111 is still there, than it's most probably your engine speed sensor which is broken. It's a mess to change it but not too expensive and a VERY usual problem on the V8!

Careful: You're reading the Audi 200 20V Turbo Quattro fault codes - they may be different for the V8.

It is also worth submitting the Audi V8 mailing list at audifans.com as all the people there are speaking English and have tons of infos for you and are very helpful!

Regards

Bastian

Faultcode 2111 is the same... speed sensor

Hi Bastian,
Thanks for guidance. I did it again as you described and now i got the code 2121. Which is related to idle switch. Seems more logical as the car started and stumbled and after about one minute engine stopped. can you tell me how to proceed and fix the problem. BTW, i ve submitted to mailing list at audifans, but i feel easy to post here. Still don't know how to post there. I ll try again. many thanks.

I checked TPS, ISV after removal and found Ok. now my focus towards G28 but could not locate the three pin connector can anyone guide where is it located and from where to approach (from engine bay or from below) coz i want to chk it before removing.

Sorry Munir,

Roy sent me a message in order to translate it for you some weeks ago and I was just too lazy. But here we go:

Before changing any parts, check the idle switch at the throttle valve potentiometer. You find it below the idle valve in the fron of the engine. At the potentiometer your find two cross-drive screws. You have to lose them and rotate the potentiometer until you hear a gentle "click" just before the throttle valve completely closes (use the little lever). When everything is in place, tight the screws, double-check if it clicks and make a test drive.

Still, it is most certain that your engine speed sensor has a defect, it is extremely common. You would find out when reading out the ECU fault memory. But give the idle switch a try.

Regards

Bastian

PS.: In order to use the V8 mailing list, you have to send a mail to v8@audifans.com - it is then spread to all members of the list.

Dear Bastien,
No problem. i am more lazy as my car is parked for a month and battery has gone down and i chk each step once a week of course on weekends only. Anyway i chkd Throttle valve switch and as u mentioned i ve attached it back. I cleaned N-71 also with air pressure using WD40.Now i want to disconect G28 and want to chk it without removing. Where this connector is located exactly?should i go through engine bay or from below?Thanks.
U r gr8 as u don't understand ppl problem in english and still try to solve after getting translated. i am also trying this on audifans.com but don't know how to post pictures there. I ll give u a hint on translations which i use to translate german to english.go to google translate and after copying the text from any website u can get it translated in german or any other language.
Regards
Munir

Hi,

I think it's actually the main reason why you get to little replies for your problem - people want to help, many speak English but hardly any know all the English terms. I have to use a dictionary as well to find out the terms when required and that takes a lot more time than answering in German.

Regarding the G28 (engine speed flywheel sensor, right?): The connector is somewhere between the fire wall, the sensor itself is located in the bell housing. It is a real struggle to change it if you do it the first time.

Regards

Bastian

Is this (G28 connector) on the bracket that is bolted to the back of the engine below the throttle cable routing. the bracket carries the plugs/sockets for the 2 sensors, and the lambda connection?

Bastian.
I'm interested in what you are saying about the throttle position switch. My car has a little difficulty idling for a few seconds after starting from warm. Because I used the original air temp sensor, I had to disturb those devices at the front of the induction system. So, maybe I have upset the position.

If anyone has a diagram showing the engine bay, with labels to the individual components, I'd be very interested.

Check "Anhang"

there you will find G28

but it's better to read out the faultcodes...

Hi,

I did this on my car this weekend.
Background: engine stopped while cruising at low speed.
It was possible to restart the engine after a while (cooled).
This is typical behavior when the G28 sensor goes bad.
You can find the exchange info here: http://www.audiv8.com/german/faq/faq_show.php?id=201

The connectors are somebit hard to reach.
They are located directly under the vacuum clock for the auto cruise (under the left hand distributor)

It is often a good idea to change the other sensor as well.

Hej Stefan,

welcome to the forum!

Bastian

Hi Bastian,

Danke!

//Stefan

Now i removed left distributor cap to check the connectors for G$4 and G28.The resistance on G28 point 1 & 2 was .99 Kohm and no connectivity at 2 & 3 and 1& 3.similarly G4 was .96 Kohm at same points.so according to manual both are ok then i checked inside of the distributor cap and to my surprise the two points for cylinder have gone.I changed the same distributor 3 years back with Audi workshop . Surprisingly there is exactly same type of damage.chk attachment.I m planning to change the cap and hopefully the problem ll be soved.

"Anhang" don't work

"Anhang". Sorry i could not understand. can u explain more.Thanks.

watch attachment

What would be reason of same wear while i changed the whole distributor with cap in 2007.The old cap (before 2007) and the cap (in 2010) after 3 years in attachment.

can u start engine without one distributor?

Happy new Year!

do you mean why the is contact is on one side a pin and
on the other side "inside the housing"?

That's the normal style of this housings nowadays...

You change it once a time... so you should know, that a new one looks that way... it's fully normal

Grateful to both of u, Martin and Roy. Last time i didn't see the replced cap as it was replced by Audi workshop. I only saw the removed one.I was about to buy a new one but u saved me from this.I also removed spark plugs and checked the wires and found all good.As i mentioned before that i checked idle stabilisation valve, Throttle position sensor and air flow meter and found all good. My G4 also good as its reading is 0.99 ohm but reading of G28 is 0.96 ohm which should be similar as G4.what do u suggest should i replace G28 sensor (engine speed sensor)? Next quiry would be how to change. I tried and loosened the upper bolt of shield but no space of tool for lower bolt as the exhust pipe is very close. kindly guide.Many thanks.

Try to start the engine, don't turn ignition off... then read out the engine fault-codes

LINK

Then you should know what is to do...

The code i pulled was 2111. Now i can not remove the lower bolt of shield covering the sensors. upper one i could remove but there is no space for conventional tool between shield and exhaust pipe. i am thinking bout grinding one of 10 hexa key so that it may fit with ratchet in the narrow space.For a common problem, it should ve been easily accessible. any hint?

I changed the G28, RPM sensor but not starting yet. I checked for spark which was present in all 8 cylinders.i think fuel pump not pushing gas. i checked the noise from pump while switching on the ignition. no noise was there. when i checked for electric continuity through pump, it was ok.i think ECU not giving current to fuel pump. i pulled the code it z still 2111 despite i put new sensor. may be ?bad electric connection of G28 with ECU.this may be the reason.where is ECU located and how to check.i ve no VAG 1551 but know how to blink the codes. i need help and guidance. Thanks a lot.

This fault code you have when the engine didn't run.
Fuel pump, I think - I'm not sure, only runs when you crank or run the engine. Only turn ignition on didn't switch the pump on (for some seconds) like on other cars.

Check the voltage to the injectors. You have on one side the 12V switched via relais (I remember that the V8 has 2 relais?) and on the other ground which is switched by the ECU.
When you have some sparks I thin think the ECU control ground (PWM signal) is ok and you will have some problems with the 12V voltage.

Now i removed return pipe of fuel and there was no sign of fuel while cranking. I think the pump electric circuit is OK but mechanically it z not working.If there is problem with injectors or voltage of injectors then fuel should come from return pipe. code 2111 is false when engine is not running. Audi repair manual guides how to check the fuel pump and uses a remote control at fuse 17.what is an alternate way of checking the pump without removing it?

Driving the car is other option

You could get direct the voltage on the connectors of the pump.
Sometimes the pump is only blocked, 2-3 times with the voltages and the pumps works for some days.

I'm using a lot of concepts/ideas from working on my Ur, as the basic ideas are the same. (it's just the number of cylinders that's different)
So please, correct me if I'm wrong in any of this-

The fuel pump I expect to be controlled through the ECU. If the ECU is not getting a signal that the engine is running, the fuel pump will not be activated.

The ECU knows the engine is running from the sensors on the flywheel. One sensor provides tooth count from the flywheel. The other sensor provides a trigger point for the count, using a timing pin on the flywheel.
In ur circles in the UK, there have been a number of occasions when the 'timing pin' has been damaged, either from poor starter motor replacement methods. In some cases, the pins have seemingly 'fallen out'. It does not matter. No pin= no timing trigger= no start. It's the same effect as having a bad sensor.
The tooth count can actually work quite well, even with several teeth damaged, so long as the timing pin is present.
The fuel system will normally maintain a fairly good level of fuel pressure. I did think that the pump was briefly run when the ignition is turned on. A common trait of poor fuel pressure in the system extended cranking before it starts.

A test of the fuel system would simply be done by supplying 12v directly to the pump, bypassing all the controls. This is probably what is refered to by Fuse 17/remote control.
The alternative is access to the fuel pump electrical connections which are under a circular plate in the boot(trunk, for colonials). This access plate is under the black carpet, on the ridge immediately behind the rear seat. About where the 'ski hatch' is. The plate is held in with screws. So you need to pull up the piece of carpet that is stuck down. The connections for the fuel level are also there.
If the fuel pipes are disconnected at the engine, then this is a good time to check not just that the pump runs, but also delivers enough fuel. So put the pipes into a petrol container, and run the pump. If the pump runs, then check delivery. Pumps always deliver significantly more fuel than is required. A good pump in a k-jet injection system delivers in excess of 900ml in 30 seconds, if I remember correctly. I would use this as a benchmark unless anyone knows of any other figure.

If the fuel pump was making any noise (loud buzzing, etc,), then fuel pump failure could be a possibility.

As I said- all of this is open to correction.

Hi,

everything you've said is 100% true from what I know. The behavior regarding the pin and the flywheel sensors is identical at the V8. The main difference between the Fivebanger and the V8 is that the V8 is able to start also without a working Hall sensor, whereas the Hall sensor is required on Fivebangers.

Best regards

Bastian